N°153 Aprile Maggio

PER I PROFESSIONISTI E GLI APPASSIONATI Poste Italiane Spa Spedizione in abbonamento postale D.L. 353/2003 (Conv. Legge 27/02/2004 N. 46) Art.1 – comma 1, LO/MI Mensile • Anno XIX • N°153 Aprile-Maggio 2024 SPECIALE Il bianco vince con o senza bollicine GENOVA Sapori di mare e di terra tra i carrugi CHÂTEAU MINUTY Interprete del savoir-faire di Provenza, in rosa Foto Roberto Frankenberg

3 Food&Beverage | aprile-maggio 2024 EDITORIALE Barbara Amati amati@foodandbev.it i Vino senz’alcol. Perché no? In un Vinitaly VHPSUH D΍ROODWR GL RSHUDWRUL VWUDQLHUL XQR GHL WHPL LQ GLVFXVVLRQH IUD JOL VWDQG ª VWDWR LO YLQR VHQ]ȇDOFRO R GHDOFROL]]DWR TXHO SURGRWWR FKH KD IUD OR H OR GL JUDGR DOFROLFR R VH ª SDU]LDOPHQWH GHDOFRODWR ΖQ ΖWDOLD VRQR JL¢ XQD FLQTXDQWLQD OH FDVH YLQLFROH FKH OR SURGXFRQR SHUFK« VH XQD YROWD LO WDUJHW HUDQR JOL DVWHPL R FKL OR SUHIHULYD SHU PRWLYL UHOLJLRVL RUD LO SXEEOLFR VL ª DOODUJDWR H FRPH KD VSLHJDWR OȇDOWRDWHVLQR 0DUWLQ )RUDGRUL +RIVW¦WWHU IDYRUHYROH D TXHVWH HWLFKHWWH H FKH JL¢ QH SURGXFH GLYHUVH Ȋ/H UHGLQL GHJOL DFTXLVWL RJJL VRQR WLUDWH GDOOH QXRYH JHQHUD]LRQL GDL JLRYDQLVVLPL FKH KDQQR XQ DSSURFFLR QXRYR H WRWDOPHQWH GLYHUVR DO YLQRȋ ΖO PLQLVWUR GHOOȇ$JULFROWXUD )UDQFHVFR /ROOREULJLGD LQYHFH VRWWROLQHD Ȋ1RQ FKLDPLDPROR YLQRȋ Š GȇDFFRUGR DQFKH (OYLUD %RUWRORPLRO SUHVLGHQWH GHO &RQVRU]LR &RQHJOLDQR 9DOGREELDGHQH 3URVHFFR 'RFJ SHU OD TXDOH TXHVWR SURGRWWR QRQ SX´ HVVHUH FKLDPDWR YLQR HG ª PROWR SL» VFHWWLFD VXO VXR VXFFHVVR SRLFK« ȊJL¢ LQ SDVVDWR FL VRQR VWDWL PRPHQWL VWRULFL LQ FXL LO GHDOFRODWR KD IDWWR FDSROLQR SHU´ SRL WXWWR VL ª ULVROWR LQ XQD EROOD GL VDSRQHȋ 3HU TXHVWR OD SURGXWWULFH WUHYLJLDQD JXDUGD FRQ VRVSHWWR OȇHQIDVL VXO SURGRWWR IRUVH SL» RSHUD GL PDUNHWLQJ FKH GL VRVWDQ]D YHUD /D VWRULD GHOOD ELUUD DQDOFROLFD SHU´ GRYUHEEH LQVHJQDUH TXDOFRVD $OOȇXOWLPR 6XSHU %RZO OD ȴQDOH GHO FDPSLRQDWR GL IRRWEDOO DPHULFDQR GRYH JOL VSRW SXEEOLFLWDUL FRVWDQR WDQWLVVLPR +HLQHNHQ KD DFTXLVWDWR XQR VSD]LR SHU SUHVHQWDUH OD VXD ELUUD (UD OD SULPD YROWD FKH XQD EHYDQGD QRQ DOFROLFD SHU DGXOWL HUD SURWDJRQLVWD GL XQD FDPSDJQD SXEEOLFLWDULD GXUDQWH LO 6XSHU %RZO 8Q VHJQDOH LPSRUWDQWH FKH TXHVWR WLSR GL PHUFDWR LQL]LD D YDOHUH TXDOFRVD 3HUFK« QRQ SRWUHEEH VXFFHGHUH OR VWHVVR SHU LO YLQR" &RV® FRPH SHU OD FDUQH FROWLYDWD R JOL LQVHWWL QHVVXQR VDU¢ FRVWUHWWR D EHUH TXHOOD EHYDQGD FKH DL ZLQH ORYHU QRQ GLFH QXOOD PD FKH SX´ GLYHQWDUH XQ XOWHULRUH YHLFROR GL EXVLQHVV SHU OH D]LHQGH 9DOH OD SHQD GL IDUH SROHPLFKH VXO IDWWR FKH VL SRVVD FKLDPDUOR YLQR" /D ELUUD DQDOFROLFD VL FKLDPD FRV® H QRQ SDUH FKH L FRQVXPL GHOOD ELUUD QRUPDOH QH DEELDQR VR΍HUWR SL» GL WDQWR ΖQ VRVWDQ]D VL ULVFKLD XQD EDWWDJOLD GL UHWURJXDUGLD WDQWR SL» FKH RJJL LQ ΖWDOLD L GHDOFRODWL VL SRVVRQR FRPPHUFLDOL]]DUH PD D GL΍HUHQ]D GHJOL DOWUL 3DHVL HXURSHL QRQ VL SRVVRQR SURGXUUH /D QRUPD HXURSHD ª VWDWD DSSURYDWD QHO PD SRL L 3DHVL PHPEUL GHYRQR DWWXDUH OH GLVSRVL]LRQL VSHFLȴFKH ΖO SUREOHPD TXLQGL QRQ ª GHFLGHUH VH SURGXUUH R PHQR LO YLQR VHQ]ȇDOFRO RJQL D]LHQGD SUHQGHU¢ OD SURSULD GHFLVLRQH PD GDUH OD SRVVLELOLW¢ GL IDUOR D WXWWL SHUFK« ª XQ SURGRWWR FKH VL ULYROJH D XQ PHUFDWR GL΍HUHQWH HG ª XQ SHFFDWR ODVFLDUOR SHUGHUH R UHJDODUOR DL QRVWUL FRPSHWLWRU Ζ WXULVWL VWUDQLHUL FKH YLVLWDQR 3LHPRQWH R 7RVFDQD FRQWLQXHUDQQR D EHUH %DUROR SHUFK« YHQJRQR LQ ΖWDOLD DQFKH SHU TXHOOR PD LQWDQWR YHGLDPR GD WHPSR FKH LO PHUFDWR DSSUH]]D VHPSUH GL SL» YLQL OHJJHUL H EHYHULQL 6L SDUOD VHPSUH GL DQGDUH LQFRQWUR DO JXVWR GHL FRQVXPDWRUL H TXLQGL SHUFK« LO YLQR VHQ]ȇDOFRO QRQ YD EHQH" 6LDPR VLFXUL FKH LQ TXHVWR PRGR GLIHQGLDPR OD QRVWUD SURGX]LRQH YLQLFROD" Š JLXVWR DYHUH TXDOFKH SHUSOHVVLW¢ VX TXHVWR PHUFDWR FHUFDUH GL FDSLUH VH QRQ VLD XQ IHQRPHQR SDVVHJJHUR YDOXWDUH L FRVWL GL TXHVWR WLSR GL SURGX]LRQH PD TXHOOR FKH QRQ WURYLDPR FRUUHWWR ª VFDUWDUH D SULRUL TXHVWD SRVVLELOLW¢ LQ QRPH GHOOD VDFUDOLW¢ GHO YLQR 'LDPR D WXWWL OD SRVVLELOLW¢ GL SURGXUOL FRV® FRPH JL¢ DFFDGH LQ DOWUL 3DHVL SRL VDUDQQR LO PHUFDWR H OH FDSDFLW¢ LPSUHQGLWRULDOL D GHFLGHUH ΖQ IRQGR TXHOOR GHOOD ELUUD ª XQ VHWWRUH DQFRUD LQ SLHQD VDOXWH Fervono le GLVFXVVLRQL VXL QXRYL SURGRWWL FKH LQ ΖWDOLD SRVVRQR essere solo FRPPHUFLDOL]]DWL ΖO ULVFKLR GL XQD battaglia di retroguardia in nome della presunta difesa del vino

4 Food&Beverage | aprile-maggio 2024 SOMMARIO 3 EDITORIALE Vino senz’alcol. Perché no? %DUEDUD $PDWL 10 RUINART L’arte celebra la natura %DUEDUD $PDWL 13 SPUMANTI Trentodoc consolida la crescita a valore %DUEDUD $PDWL 16 FOTOGRAFIA La “solaire culture” di Veuve Clicquot (OHQD %LDQFR 20 DONNE FITTIPALDI Rinasce la vigna di Michelangelo )HGHULFD %HOYHGHUH 22 FRANCIACORTA Da Fratelli Berlucchi a Freccianera %DUEDUD $PDWL 31 NAPOLI La tradizione di Signora Bettola )HGHULFD %HOYHGHUH 44 COVERSTORY Minuty, savoir-faire di Provenza %DUEDUD $PDWL 50 BERLINO Da Coda con dieci portate stellate (OHQD %LDQFR 52 MAISON KRUG Les Créations de 2011 in musica %DUEDUD $PDWL 54 UMBRIA Il fine dining di Coro a Orvieto 0DUFR *HPHOOL 56 TECNOLOGIE Gemacht, poco rumore e molto calore Bibi Monti 58 DEGUSTAZIONI Alta Langa conferma il proprio valore Clementina Palese 60 CAMPANIA Pizza Accademy a Tramonti Clementina Palese 62 SPECIALE Il bianco, colore che vince Clementina Palese 74 COMPLEANNI I 20 anni del Park Hyatt Milano %DUEDUD $PDWL Direttore Responsabile Barbara Amati - amati@foodandbev.it Redazione redazione@foodandbev.it Collaboratori di Redazione Federica Belvedere Luigi Ferro, Bibi Monti Collaboratori Andrea Ballestra, Paolo Becarelli, Donatella Bernabò Silorata, Elena Bianco, Germana Cabrelle, Manuela Caspani, Irene Catarella, Rossella Cerulli, Giulia Marcucci, Cinzia Meoni, Gianni Mercatali, Giovanna Moldenhauer, Carla Pacelli, Clementina Palese, Gio Pirovano, Max Rella, Loretta Simonato, Francesco Torlaschi, Micaela Zucconi Foto Chris Abatzis, Marco Antinori, Helenio Barbetta, Gabriele Basilico, Alberto Bernasconi, Paolo Biava, Alberto Blasetti, Roberto Bosi, Nicolò Brunelli, Stefano Butturini, Sergio Coimbra, Fabbio Cravarezza, Marco Curatolo, Stefano Delia, Andrea Di Lorenzo, Giada Diotto, Davide Dusnasco, Davide Dutto, Foto Ennevi, Roberto Frankenberg, Gabriella Gargioni, Claudia Goetke, Alessandra Farinelli, Adriana Forconi, Giuseppe Ghedina, Luca Maraglia, Gaja Menchicchi, Susi Mezzanotte, Matteo Mionetto, Daniele Nalesso, Michele Nastasi, Massi Ninni, Paolo Pansini, Marco Parisi, Mattia Pellizzari, Sandra Pilacchi, Beatrice Pilotto, Francesco Piras, Dani Porcaro, Eleonora Proietti, Max Rella, Helmuth Rier, Jacopo Salvi, Federica Santeusanio, Stefano Scatà, Giorgio Schirato, Valentina Sommariva, Matteo Steinbach, Andrea Straccini, Mike Tamasco, Benedetto Tarantino, Leo Torri, Edoardo Vaccaroli, Paolo Valentini, Lido Vannucchi, Francesco Vaona, Marco Varoli, Jacopo Ventura, Giulia Zamboni, Gabriele Zanon Responsabile Amministrativo e Commerciale Aldo Ballestra ballestra@febeditoriale.com Grafica, impaginazione e stampa Gierre Print Service Srl via Carlo Goldoni 1 - 20129 Milano Editore F&B Editoriale Srl - P.I. 05605300960 Registrazione Roc n°15455 del 04/07/2007 Reg. al Trib. di Milano n. 720 del 27/9/2005 Venerdi 3 Maggio Abbonamento Italia 6 numeri € 24

5 Food&Beverage | aprile-maggio 2024 76 PIZZERIE La Piedigrotta è Krug Ambassador )UDQFHVFR 7RUODVFKL 78 ITINERARI A Genova sapori di mare e di terra Massimiliano Rella 82 OSPITALITÀ A Villa Cimbrone la Storia ti guarda Bibi Monti 84 SFIZIOFOOD L’importanza delle radici a tavola (OHQD %LDQFR 90 LOCALI I sapori del Laboratorio Flokloristico Manuela Caspani 92 QUARTIERI ALTI Antico e moderno al Lasserhaus )HGHULFD %HOYHGHUH Direttore Responsabile Barbara Amati Uffici di redazione via Carlo Goldoni 1 20129 Milano c/o Gierre Print Service +39 327 299 9556 FOOD&BEVERAGE 21/Ζ1( www.foodandbev.it Seguiteci su Food&Beverage vi dà appuntamento al 28 giugno 2024 153 APRILE - MAGGIO 2024 ANNO XIX PER I PROFESSIONISTI E GLI APPASSIONATI Poste Italiane Spa Spedizione in abbonamento postale D.L. 353/2003 (Conv. Legge 27/02/2004 N. 46) Art.1 – comma 1, LO/MI Mensile • Anno XIX • N°153 Aprile-Maggio 2024 SPECIALE Il bianco vince con o senza bollicine GENOVA Sapori di mare e di terra tra i carrugi CHÂTEAU MINUTY Interprete del savoir-faire di Provenza, in rosa Foto Roberto Frankenberg 01-49_FeB_153.indd 1 29/04/24 15:44 ATTUALITÀ 8 Uomini e Vigne 24 Novità da stappare 28 Food valley 36 Lodge & Spa 38 Business News 94 Cultura e Gusto 96 Verità nascoste RUBRICHE 6 Chez… chef 42 Mondo in pentola 88 Spiritbarman 98 Buona lettura

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