N°154 Giugno Luglio

PER I PROFESSIONISTI E GLI APPASSIONATI Poste Italiane Spa Spedizione in abbonamento postale D.L. 353/2003 (Conv. Legge 27/02/2004 N. 46) Art.1 – comma 1, LO/MI Mensile • Anno XIX • N°154 Giugno-Luglio 2024 ITINERARI In Thailandia terra di street food H GL FD΍ª VROLGDOH SPECIALE Il rosato si fa strada nel dilemma tra bianco e rosso VEUVE CLICQUOT RICH e RICHROSÉ on ice joie de vivre sotto il sole Foto Simona Giardullo

3 Food&Beverage | giugno-luglio 2024 EDITORIALE Barbara Amati amati@foodandbev.it i Oltre il contratto di lavoro FLSH GRSR XQD LPSHJQDWLYD WUDWWDWLYD KD ȴUPDWR LO &RQWUDWWR FROOHWWLYR QD]LRQDOH SHU OD ULVWRUD]LRQH 'L VROLWR Food&Beverage QRQ VL RFFXSD GL SUREOHPL VLQGDFDOL PD YLVWD OD VLWXD]LRQH GHJOL XOWLPL DQQL FRQ OH LPSUHVH VHPSUH GL SL» D FDFFLD GL SHUVRQDOH OD QRWL]LD FL SDUH PROWR LPSRUWDQWH 3HU TXDVL XQ PLOLRQH GL ODYRUDWRUL GHOOD ULVWRUD]LRQH LO FRQWUDWWR SUHYHGH XQ DXPHQWR GL HXUR D UHJLPH LO UD΍RU]DPHQWR GHOOȇDVVLVWHQ]D VDQLWDULD LQWHJUDWLYD H XQD GXUDWD GL WUH DQQL H PH]]R FRQ VFDGHQ]D LO GLFHPEUH /D SDUWH QRUPDWLYD FRPSUHQGH XQD GHFLVD UHYLVLRQH GHOOD FODVVLȴFD]LRQH H GHOOȇLQTXDGUDPHQWR GHO SHUVRQDOH IHUPL GDJOL DQQL 1RYDQWD PHQWUH VRQR VWDWH UD΍RU]DWH OH QRUPDWLYH LQ PDWHULD GL GLULWWL LQGLYLGXDOL GHOOH ODYRUDWULFL H GHL ODYRUDWRUL FRPH OH PLVXUH GL FRQWUDVWR DOOH YLROHQ]H H DOOH PROHVWLH QHL OXRJKL GL ODYRUR H L FRQJHGL SHU OH GRQQH YLWWLPH GL YLROHQ]D &RPH KD VSLHJDWR /LQR 6WRSSDQL SUHVLGHQWH GL )LSH &RQIFRPPHUFLR ȊLO ULQQRYR GL TXHVWR FRQWUDWWR FKH UDSSUHVHQWD LO WHU]R &RQWUDWWR GL ODYRUR SL» DSSOLFDWR QHO QRVWUR 3DHVH GRSR TXHOOR GHO 7HU]LDULR H GHO VHWWRUH 0HWDOPHFFDQLFR ª XQ ULVXOWDWR LPSRUWDQWH LQ YLVWD GHOOȇRUPDL LPPLQHQWH DYYLR GHOOD VWDJLRQH HVWLYD $YHU VRWWRVFULWWR LO FRQWUDWWR LQ TXHVWR FRQWHVWR GRSR L GDQQL GHOOH WDQWH UHFHQWL HPHUJHQ]H ª VHJQR GL UHVSRQVDELOLW¢ VRFLDOH FDSDFLW¢ GL YLVLRQH FRPSHWHQ]D WHFQLFD H FRUDJJLR GL WXWWH OH SDUWL SUHVHQWL DO WDYROR QHJR]LDOHȋ 1RQ FRQRVFLDPR L GHWWDJOL GHO FRQWUDWWR PD VDSSLDPR FKH L FRQWUDWWL FROOHWWLYL KDQQR LO FRPSLWR GL GLVHJQDUH OD FRUQLFH GL XQ TXDGUR FKH SX´ HVVHUH SRL XOWHULRUPHQWH DUULFFKLWR ( TXHVWD VHPEUD HVVHUH XQD GL TXHOOH VLWXD]LRQL LQ FXL SRL RJQL ORFDOH GRYU¢ D VHFRQGD GHOOH VLWXD]LRQL VWDELOLUH DOWUH UHJROH 6L GLFHYD FKH LO UHGGLWR GL FLWWDGLQDQ]D DYHVVH SURYRFDWR OȇHVRGR GL FDPHULHUL H EDULVWL PD VSDULWR LO UHGGLWR OD VLWXD]LRQH QRQ ª FDPELDWD 8Q DUWLFROR GL Gusto OȇLQVHUWR GL Repubblica GHGLFDWR DO PRQGR GHO FLER UDFFRQWD LQIDWWL GL PROWL ULVWRUDQWL GL OLYHOOR FKH KDQQR GHFLVR GL ULGXUUH OD ORUR DWWLYLW¢ LQ QRPH GL XQ UDSSRUWR IUD YLWD H ODYRUR VHPSUH SL» LPSRUWDQWH SHU L GLSHQGHQWL $OOȇHarry’s Piccolo GL 7ULHVWH ª VWDWR WROWR LO VHUYL]LR D SUDQ]R GHOOD GRPHQLFD H GXUDQWH OH IHVWH L WXUQL VRQR VWDWL RUJDQL]]DWL LQ PRGR WDOH GD IDU ODYRUDUH LO SHUVRQDOH R D 1DWDOH R D &DSRGDQQR $OEHUWR 6DQWLQL GHO Dal Pescatore PHWWH OȇDFFHQWR VXJOL DOORJJL GHO SHUVRQDOH VSHVVR FRQ VWDQ]H VLQJROH H $XURUD 0D]]XFFKHOOL GHO Marconi KD RSWDWR SHU GXH JLRUQL LQWHUL GL FKLXVXUD ΖO Don Alfonso GL 6DQWȇ$JDWD GHL *ROȴ KD GHFLVR GL ULGXUUH GL XQ WHU]R L FRSHUWL XQD GHFLVLRQH FKH DSSDUH XQ SRȇ VR΍HUWD GD $OIRQVR ΖDFFDULQR FKH SDUOD GL ȊXQD VRFLHW¢ GL GLULWWL H QRQ GL GRYHULȋ PD ª FRPXQTXH FRQWHQWR GHO VXR VWD΍ 7XWWL ODYRUDQR PHQR H Fȇª SL» HQHUJLD LQ VDOD H FXFLQD ΖO PRQGR ª FDPELDWR H DQFKH OH SHUVRQH L JLRYDQL QRQ VRQR SL» TXHOOL GL XQ WHPSR ΖO PRQGR VL ª DSHUWR OH SURVSHWWLYH DOOȇHVWHUR QRQ PDQFDQR SHQVLDPR DOOH SRVVLELOLW¢ GL PHGLFL H LQIHUPLHUL LQ DOWUL 3DHVL HG ª LQXWLOH DUURFFDUVL VXO SHQVLHUR GL XQD VRFLHW¢ FKH QRQ HVLVWH SL» ΖO FDPELDPHQWR ª DUULYDWR DQFKH WUD QRL LQ PROWL KDQQR LPSDUDWR FKH XQ GLSHQGHQWH QRQ YDOH OȇDOWUR H TXDQGR QH FDSLWD XQR FDSDFH VL FHUFD GL WHQHUVHOR $QFKH SHUFK« QRQ VL VD VH VL ULXVFLU¢ D WURYDUQH XQ DOWUR 3HU TXHVWR YD XQ SODXVR DO QXRYR FRQWUDWWR PD SRL RJQXQR GHYH JXDUGDUH LQ FDVD SURSULD R PHJOLR QHO SURSULR ORFDOH H YHGHUH FRPH SX´ DUULFFKLUH LO TXDGUR JHQHUDOH /D ILUPD GHO QXRYR &RQWUDWWR FROOHWWLYR QD]LRQDOH QRQ HVDXULVFH L problemi della ULVWRUD]LRQH &KH QRQ VRQR VFRPSDUVL FRQ OȇHOLPLQD]LRQH del reddito di FLWWDGLQDQ]D Ζ GLSHQGHQWL FRPH i ristoratori- sono FRQVDSHYROL GL avere una vita DQFKH DO GL IXRUL del ristorante

4 Food&Beverage | giugno-luglio 2024 S FOI ZMI OMFAOROI OD 3 EDITORIALE Oltre il contratto di lavoro Barbara Amati 10 DISTILLATI Gin Accademia completa Gin District Barbara Amati 13 MILANO Chandon Garden Spritz all’hub Senato Barbara Amati 15 CESARINI SFORZA Aquila Reale Riserva 2004 sfida il tempo *LRYDQQD 0ROGHKDXHU 18 SAN FELICE Vitiarium per l’alta ristorazione Barbara Amati 27 CASERTA Da Matteo alla Brace zebre e canguri Barbara Amati 29 INDAGINI Surgelati, trend in crescita )UDQFHVFR 7RUODVFKL 40 VEUVE CLICQUOT La solaire joie de vivre dei nuovi RICH Barbara Amati 46 NAPOLI Gustosi classici a Casa Vittoria )HGHULFD %HOYHGHUH 48 CONSORZI 100 anni di Chianti Classico Barbara Amati 50 VERONA Un tavolo da dodici per Micol &OHPHQWLQD 3DOHVH 52 DEGUSTAZIONI I terroir dell’Etna per Bianco di Sei Barbara Amati 54 TRATTORIE Chef Sgherzi e l’incanto della Foresta 5RVVHOOD &HUXOOL 56 MILANO La longevità dell’Arneis ai Roero Days *LRYDQQD 0ROGHQKDXHU Direttore Responsabile Barbara Amati - amati@foodandbev.it Redazione redazione@foodandbev.it Collaboratori di Redazione Federica Belvedere Luigi Ferro, Bibi Monti Collaboratori Andrea Ballestra, Paolo Becarelli, Donatella Bernabò Silorata, Elena Bianco, Germana Cabrelle, Manuela Caspani, Irene Catarella, Rossella Cerulli, Giulia Marcucci, Cinzia Meoni, Gianni Mercatali, Giovanna Moldenhauer, Carla Pacelli, Clementina Palese, Gio Pirovano, Max Rella, Loretta Simonato, Francesco Torlaschi, Micaela Zucconi Foto Chris Abatzis, Marco Antinori, Alessandro Barattelli, Helenio Barbetta, Gabriele Basilico, Alberto Bernasconi, Paolo Biava, Alberto Blasetti, Roberto Bosi, Nicolò Brunelli, Stefano Butturini, Sergio Coimbra, Fabbio Cravarezza, Marco Curatolo, Stefano Delia, Andrea Di Lorenzo, Giada Diotto, Davide Dusnasco, Davide Dutto, Foto Ennevi, Alessandra Farinelli, Andrea Fongo, Roberto Frankenberg, Gabriella Gargioni, Giuseppe Ghedina, Simona Giardullo, Alessandra Farinelli, Adriana Forconi, Luca Maraglia, Sara Matthews, Gaja Menchicchi, Susi Mezzanotte, Matteo Mionetto, Daniele Nalesso, Michele Nastasi, Massi Ninni, Paolo Pansini, Marco Parisi, Mattia Pellizzari, Sandra Pilacchi, Beatrice Pilotto, Francesco Piras, Dani Porcaro, Eleonora Proietti, Max Rella, Helmuth Rier, Jacopo Salvi, Federica Santeusanio, Stefano Scatà, Giorgio Schirato, Valentina Sommariva, Matteo Steinbach, Andrea Straccini, Mike Tamasco, Benedetto Tarantino, Leo Torri, Edoardo Vaccaroli, Paolo Valentini, Lido Vannucchi, Francesco Vaona, Marco Varoli, Jacopo Ventura, Giulia Zamboni, Gabriele Zanon, Massimo Zanon Responsabile Amministrativo e Commerciale Aldo Ballestra ballestra@febeditoriale.com Grafica, impaginazione e stampa Gierre Print Service Srl via Carlo Goldoni 1 - 20129 Milano Editore F&B Editoriale Srl - P.I. 05605300960 Registrazione Roc n°15455 del 04/07/2007 Reg. al Trib. di Milano n. 720 del 27/9/2005 Lunedì 24 Giugno Abbonamento Italia 6 numeri € 24

5 Food&Beverage | giugno-luglio 2024 58 MONFERRATO Almaranto e Adagio, qualità e territorio 0DVVLPLOLDQR 5HOOD 60 CONSORZI Collio, eccellenza non solo per i bianchi Barbara Amati 62 SPECIALE Il rosato si fa strada tra bianco e rosso &OHPHQWLQD 3DOHVH 70 ROMA Tecnica e modernità al Caffè delle Arti 5RVVHOOD &HUXOOL 72 OSPITALITÀ Hotel della Mela, design sostenibile *LXOLD 0DUFXFFL 74 PRODOTTI I bisi di Colognola cercano spazio &OHPHQWLQD 3DOHVH 76 MAREMMA Il territorio della Fortezza all’Enobistrò 0DVVLPLOLDQR 5HOOD 78 ITINERARI Thailandia terra di sapori e di caffè 0DVVLPLOLDQR 5HOOD 82 SARDEGNA Il menu dei centenari a Su Gologone *HUPDQD &DEUHOOH 84 SFIZIOFOOD La semplicità di vongole e lupini (OHQD %LDQFR 90 LOCALI Drink e food al Ceccato Garden Bar 0DQXHOD &DVSDQL 92 QUARTIERI ALTI Lusso al Grand Hotel Imperiale (OHQD %LDQFR Direttore Responsabile Barbara Amati Uffici di redazione via Carlo Goldoni 1 20129 Milano c/o Gierre Print Service +39 327 299 9556 FOOD&BEVERAGE 21/Ζ1( www.foodandbev.it Seguiteci su Food&Beverage vi dà appuntamento al 24 settembre 2024 154 GIUGNO - LUGLIO 2024 ANNO XIX PER I PROFESSIONISTI E GLI APPASSIONATI Poste Italiane Spa Spedizione in abbonamento postale D.L. 353/2003 (Conv. Legge 27/02/2004 N. 46) Art.1 – comma 1, LO/MI Mensile • Anno XIX • N°154 Giugno-Luglio 2024 ITINERARI In Thailandia terra di street food H GL FD΍ ª VROLGDOH SPECIALE Il rosato si fa strada nel dilemma tra bianco e rosso VEUVE CLICQUOT RICH e RICHROSÉ on ice joie de vivre sotto il sole Foto Simona Giardullo 01-49_FeB_154.indd 1 19/06/24 17:49 ATTUALITÀ 8 Uomini e Vigne 20 Novità da stappare 22 Food valley 32 Lodge & Spa 34 Business News 94 Cultura e Gusto 96 Verità nascoste RUBRICHE 6 Chez… chef 38 Mondo in pentola 88 Spiritbarman 98 Buona lettura

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